SIX CATEGORIES OF DERMATITIS

Please HELP ME be comfortable 

Is your dog continually scratching, biting and 
licking at itself, and is driving you crazy….and you don’t know why??? Well … take comfort, you are not alone.

There are really six main reasons why dogs and cats 
will itch and scratch. The bottom line is... don't let 
them suffer! There IS a diagnosis to be made and then you and your veterinarian will be better able to select the proper treatment plan.

Itching and scratching in dogs: One of the most common calls made to any animal hospital in America goes something like this: "Doctor, I’ve got to get this dog in right away. He’s driving us nuts. All he does is itch and scratch, bite and lick and he’s keeping us up all night!"

My thought is that if the pet’s caretakers are being driven “nuts” by the dog’s scratching and licking, how awful must the poor dog feel?

This kind of call to the veterinarian refers to a fairly 
serious case of puritus. In reality there is a wide spectrum of causes and severity of itching and scratching in dogs with skin and coat trouble. Some dogs can spend hours romping through fields, digging holes, and rolling in the grass and still have no after-effects at all. Others, kept indoors and fed an excellent diet, may have severe skin disorders.

Let’s see if we can make some sense of this complicated and aggravating situation and try to 
answer the question "Why does my dog itch-and-scratch-bite-and-lick?"

There are six main categories of dermatitis we veterinarians have to consider whenever a "skin case" is presented. Most skin and coat abnormalities can be defined by or placed in one of these categories:

• Environmental
• Nutritional
• Parasitic
• Allergic
• Neurogenic
• Infectious

Keeping in mind that there are entire textbooks written about these categories, you might understand why veterinarians often take a deep breath before entering the exam room wherein awaits a patient with a "skin problem." Let’s look at each category, starting with the simplest (Environmental Dermatitis) and finishing with the most challenging (Neurogenic Dermatitis).

Environmental Dermatitis

Patients in this category are physically and nutritionally normal, but present with signs of itching and scratching, hair loss and skin irritation. By careful discourse with the owner regarding diet, activity, medical history and environment, and by performing a thorough physical exam, the veterinarian can rule out the other categories of dermatitis. Through the analysis of the patient’s history, the veterinarian will discover that the patient spends time swimming or excavating gopher holes or romping through fields where thistles seem prevalent.

Many dogs are very sensitive to simple lawn grasses. And by matching what is visible on the patient’s skin with a probable environmental irritant -- the cause of the skin problem can be determined and corrective measures taken.

An example is Moist Eczema, often called a "Hot Spot" moisture on the skin surface from rain, pond or lake water. Minute scratches on the skin from, for example, a clipper blade, may trigger other cases. Especially in dense coated dogs or dogs where there is an accumulation of mats or shedding hair, moisture on the skin may remain long enough to allow superficial bacteria to reproduce (sort of like an organic soup!) and create an infection.

Some cases of Moist Eczema will spread very rapidly and require rather aggressive therapy to correct. Contact with plastics can also cause environmental dermatitis.

Nutritional Dermatitis

When food is the issue, correction of these cases of dog and cat itching and scratching should be a "no brainer," but even today, many veterinarians and pet owners really believe the "Complete and Balanced" statement on pet food labels.

Unfortunately, many dogs and cats live their entire lives in less than optimum health because their caretaker feeds the least expensive food they can find … and feels secure in doing so because of that "Complete and Balanced" statement.

In my thirty-five years of practice, I have seen hundreds of dogs and cats whose lives changed dramatically, and where the pet’s caretakers were shocked and surprised at the remarkable difference in their pets, by the simple act of providing the pet 
with a high quality, meat-based diet.

We are worth being taken-care of....Trust us, we
will ALWAYS be grateful!

Without proper nourishment this dog’s entire body, not just its skin and coat, will be continuously in a state of stress. High quality (more expensive!), 
meat-based dog foods seldom, if ever, create the kind of skin and coat irritation in most animals.

If you feed dry commercial dog food, be certain that the first ingredient listed is meat such as beef, poultry, lamb or fish. Specialized diets are widely available that are generally better than others in several key categories:

Quality Dog Food
    * All Natural Dog Food
    * Grain Free Dog Food
    * Organic Dog Food
    * Veterinary Prescription Diet Dog Food

Quality Cat Food
    * All Natural Cat Food
    * Grain Free Cat Food
    * Organic Cat Food
    * Veterinary Prescription Diet Cat Food

Will supplements help? Absolutely! But if the diet is a high quality, meat-based brand, the need for supplements is much less critical. It has been my experience that supplements such as Omega Fatty Acids, Vitamins and table scraps will always help a dog that is eating a generic, commercial dry dog 
food; and on occasion, supplements may even show positive benefits in a dog eating a high quality diet.

Many types of dermatological problems are avoided if the dog or cat is consuming an optimum diet. In some cases, adding a supplement, such as an omega fatty acid supplement, is the key factor in
avoiding repeated episodes of hot spots and other skin afflictions.

If your dog or cat seems to lack good coat and skin health, consider upgrading the diet to a meat-based ingredient formula and adding a supplement.

My name is Mushu

and there are many people

who try to help me NOT  to be

itchy and scratchy, and I am 

Thankful...and have Patience.

My Mommy bought me this

t-shirt, and somehow it helps.

The Phenomenon Of Dogs' Wagging Tail

 Energy in this tail!

Churchill Graham

friendliness.  Another reason for tail-wagging is a behavior of submissive prelude, particularly to a superior member of the dog pack.friendliness

Watching and hearing Churchill Graham's tail-wagging against a wall, on the carpet flooring, on the bed, against furniture, and wherever he may be, fascinates me!  He wags his tail in response to overhearing conversations, when his name is mentioned;  a pleasantry about his adopted dog sister, Francesca Le Bon Bon;  or just seeing someone he cares for, and other daily excitement.  For Churchill Graham, tail-wagging is a "pounding" thud, thud, thud, thud, thud, thud, thud, against anything solid , with a natural forceful body wiggle  notably known about Labrador Retriever breeds.

Often I've asked myself,  "...why do dogs wag their tail?  Why does Churchill Graham wag his tail so rapidly ?
The popular tale, is that dogs wag their tail out of

However, I discovered the phenomenon of tail-wagging is due to the emotional condition dogs share.  This  being in a state of conflict.  When this state is experienced, the dog feels pulled in two directions at the same time.  It
wants to advance and retreat simultaneously.  Hence, a back-and-forth movement or pulling and pushing the dog forward, but at the same time is causing it to hold back.  The urge to flee is automatic because of immediate anxiety or fear.  The urge to stay, is more challenging for the dog.  So cross emotional energy is built-up within the physical body.  The inherent rhythmic movement of pulling and pushing the dog forward and backward, as well as causing the dog to hold back, is a state of "attraction in conflict"...this is why, dogs wag their tails!  But where is the conflict arising from?


The vibrations within the dogs' body is exercising so much energy, more energy than the body at the moment can accommodate, that wagging the tail is the body's physiological response for dissipating the excess energy.  
Now, when I watch Churchill Graham, I do observe not just the tail wagging, but I take note of his body moving with a definitive push and pull experience.  


This behavioral science seems like a confusing scrabbling of energized signals, but the pronounced feature of tail-wagging is a body language we all observe from our dogs daily, and now we know the reasons!

My name is Francesca Le Bon Bon, adopted sister of Churchill Graham.  Well, I wag my tail, BUT not like a drummer as
Churchill Graham.  I suppose because I'm a girl and am more fragile and delicate . . . sometimes!

DESTRUCTIVE BEHAVIOR

"...I told you to take me with you..."

Oooooooops. . . 

NOT a normal state of being, to experience for a dog or owner!

          

NOISE PHOBIA

Dogs who  cower
in the corner
triggered by common problem  noises such as thunderstorms, fireworks, vacuums and construction noises, can provoke a dog's noise anxiety, or noise phobia. 

Fears of these unexpected noises signal an 
orienting response...the brain's mechanism for being aware.  When dogs hear these sounds, the brain instantly  processes and they determine whether it is a signal of danger.
Signs and symptoms of noise anxiety may include:

Hiding 
just the head,
comforts this dog from
fear

1.  Hiding
2.  Panting                                  
3.  Pacing
4.  Barking, whining, 
     howling.
5.  Urinating or 
     defecating
6.  Tucked-in tail
7.  Searching for the
     owner.
8.  Flatulence 
     (gaseousness)
9.  Withdrawness, or
      in a stupor
10.Discharging of anal glands
11.Nibbling at paws

Tucked-In Tail
            

12.Destructiveness
13.Yawning


Please observe however, the above signs can be 
misinterpreted!  These signs could be occurring to noise anxiety or attention-seeking behavior.
Differentiation between a learned attention
seeking behavior and a fearful behavior can be tricky.  An owner's treatment of reassurance, can encourage or reinforce the "wrong fear, "  therefore ineffectively managed.


The most efficient method,  is being constantly aware of your dogs' behavior. Identify the anxiety early-on,  and intervene immediately with a treatment technique.

Dog Cowering

What options do we have to help our dogs?
 a.  Medication, only if necessary,  but used
      under Veterinarian supervision. I personally
      am not keen with the use of medicated
      drugs.   Dogs will have side-effects, and 
      allergenic sensitivities and such problems
      should be avoided.
         
 b.  Don't punish,  it will only reinforce the fear.
 c.  Don't over-reassure, it will only reward and
      encourage the fear.
 d.  Have a "happy" environment, for  it  will 
      counteract the fear
 e.  Use Music...a favorite method I've used 
      beginning at early age.   I have chosen
      classical music, with less instrumentation, 
      and low tempo.  The calming music allow
      the brain waves, heart rate and breathing to
      be reasonably slower, hence the dog become
      calmer and relaxed.
 f.  Early exposure of known common noises, 
      or unexpected sounds, can help the puppy
      grow-up to not fear noises.  Early exposure
      would be when the puppy is about 3-4 
      months young.
 g. Good nutrition AND exercise.  Provide 
     mental stimulation from physical exertion
     can not only tire and relax your dog, but will
     naturally  produce Serotonin acting  in the
     capacity of a natural  sedative.  Good high
     protein foods will definitely  contribute to 
     the reduction of noise anxiety.


Other methods to reduce noise anxiety are:
1.  Desensitization
     an introduction of the anxiety-causing noise,
     performed at a gradual increase.  As the
     noise is  incrementally increased, allow your 
     dog to  maintain a calm,  throughout the 
     experience of the noise treatment.  

Invented in 2001
An anxiety wrap with maintained
pressure and acupressure to 
relieve stress, lessen fears
and anxieties.

2.  Body Wraps I have never used thi method, nor have
observed the use of it.  But, dog body wraps ar available to purchase.


The principle behind this method,  is to maintain a constant  pressure on the dog's body, hence leading to a reduction of anxiety.  I suppose ace bandage, wrapped around the dog can serve the same purpose. 

"...oooooops such a high pitch sound!..."

Sensitivity of sounds, loud or soft, is instinctive to all dogs.  However,  the dogs who become anxious are the ones who will develop noise anxiety.

Be Aware of a Dog's Body Language

REMEMBER when a scared dog approaches.
.  Turn to the side

.  Make no eye contact.

.  Don't make  forwarding movements

   (petting the dog's head)

.  Ignore the dog.

.  Keep silent, as your voice may pose a threat.

Be as non-threatening as possible, so the dog will LEARN to trust you!

DREAMING

"...I am sleeping and watching you with one
eye at the same time...!"

Whenever our dogs dream, I personally want to wake them up, because I fear a bad dream is occurring and want to "prevent" what I think may be discomforting.
           It appears he or she runs, woofs, and 
           wiggles, and squeaks while asleep.
But, I have learned, unless the dream will harm them, it's best to let them dream uninterrupted.

"...ummm food ..."

Dogs awakened from a deep sleep may respond irritable.  Why?  I don't know.  Maybe it is best to let them dream their happy dream of food, chasing a cat, or bird.  

Francesca le Bon Bon

She tends to always sleep on her back with feet in the air, or head 
hanging-over-her-bed...must be a deep relaxed sleep!               


Dogs have different sleep phases, just like humans do.  The only difference is the length of time.  

in a REM mode?

in a SWS mode?

Dogs go through Slow Wave Sleep (SWS)  and Rapid Eye Movement (REM) sleep.

REM Sleep Cycle:

.  more brain activity
.  twitching, or "running"
.  extremely deep sleep.       


SWS Sleep Cycle:
. breathing deeply and still
. more likely to wake-up      




Another interesting behavior, is the dog's desire
to rest or sleep back-to-back  with another dog, or with you...a beautiful sign of wanting to bond and way of showing affection...so sweet!

"...my friend...."

So what do you thing your dogs' dream about?
I think that's a secret our four-legged bundle of fur will always get to keep!

"...you will never know
about my dream..."

Next time, when your dog is curled-up in bed, eyes shut and paws twitching, with an occasional  soft whining or yowling that  breaks the silence . . . ALLOW  
to have the 
dream complete the 

chase, capture, or sniffing!  I've learned to allow
my dogs to chase, and whine in their 
airy dream space, and will never know their 
private dreams. 

CROTCH SNIFFING ?

"...how do you do..."

Why are some dogs attracted to "nosing-up" 
to human crotches?  
Bad manners? 
NOT according to Canine Code Of Conduct!  


Crotch sniffing "sounds and looks wrong," but dogs greet, by smelling vital areas such as the 
rear, under the belly, cheek, and ear, on both humans and their canine friends.


To not allow a dog to SNIFF, can be frustrating for them, because this causes the dog to now 
want to know more about the person or fellow canine.  They are "nosey" and want to know
all about you. But, one thing dogs won't do after they are "informed," is to  gossip...only humans do that.  Ooh hum...

"...just want to be informed if you will
to be a good sniffer at Customs today..."

Furthermore, to not allow sniffing among dogs, may lead to squabbles among the dogs.  But....hey, we're discussing human crotch sniffing! That's right, but hold-on to your pants,  although this crotch sniffing behavior is socially unacceptable by humans, it is NOT for dogs!  

"...let's smell and find-out why
this human is eating from
my food bowl..."

Sorry...but dogs can receive an enormous amount of information by  sniffing the genital area.  
How, and what can be done to avoid this?
 1.   The quickest way to avoid crotch  sniffing is to actually allow this dog behavior to  happen, BUT for a short 3-seconds...a quick sniff.
 2.  Re-direct this action, by introducing an alternate behavior, such as getting a favorite toy or other interesting distraction.
3.  Allow the dog to act as a dog, without getting out-of-control.
Of course, if the behavior of crotch-sniffing is 
obsessive, or excessive, which would mortify anyone, then OBEDIENCE  TRAINING  is necessary. 

"...as proper as I am, do I crotch-sniff
humans at times?..."
"...you bet your bottom...!"

EATING EXCREMENT ?

"...to eat, or not to eat ?
that is the question..."

COPROPHAGIA  is the word to discern:
                   . Habit of eating feces.

                   . Either the dog's own feces.

                   . Other dogs' feces.

                   . Cats' feces particularly tempting.

This is NOT  a comfortable subject to journal about, but this problem occurs, therefore it's  my duty to offer key information to help owners' whose cute furry bundles  have a distinct and outrageous  gourmet desire on their plate!

Dogs with Coprophagia may be well-nourished, without evidence of nutrient deficiency that would  account for the compulsion to eat feces.   


REASONS  FOR  COPROPHAGIA:

   1.  Acquired during puppyhood.

   2.  Boredom & confinement in close quarters.

   3.  Scolded for house training accidents,

        and want  to rid of the evidence.

   4.  Historically scavengers.

In either cases, feces  eating is UNDESIRABLE!

                          A.  aesthetic reasons

                          B.  bring-in intestinal parasites.

                          C.  develop toxicity

                          D.  cause bacterial infections

                          E.  raise risk of distemper, parvo

                          F.  refuse "kisses" from 

                               poly-mouth 

"...yup, I may look out-of-sync, but
grass-eating mo betta, as long not
compulsive or excessive..."

              

PREVENTIVE  MEASURES:

   1.  Remove temptation.  Keep yard clean of 

        feces, by disposing promptly.

   2.  Feed dog garlic or  pumpkin

   3.  Spray feces with citronella.

   4.  Remove the cat box out of dog's reach.

   5.  Keep dog on leash.

   6.  Use a muzzle when outside.

   7.  Provide suitable  chew toys because of
        boredom. 

   8.  Giving the dog canned food to provide

        similar texture
   9.  Offer reasonable  mental stimulation, 
        physical exercise, and attention.

  

Suggested additives,  not scientifically proven, but  may benefit by adding to your dogs' food to 
improve digestion, or to cause the feces 
unappetizing.

             .   meat tenderizers

             .   crushed pineapple

             .   glutamic acid

             .   sauerkraut

             .   Forbid,  a product made from alfalfa

                 that gives the stool a disagreeable

                 odor and taste

EXCEPTIONAL  CIRCUMSTANCES:
    .   A medical reason for Coprophagia for dogs
        with malabsorption syndrome, have a 
        ravenous appetite, and eat feces to acquire
        additional calories.
    .   Normal for mother dog with new born
        puppies.  Puppies learn to urinate and 
        defecate by the mother dog licking their 
        "bottoms."  The puppies then react to this
        touch by urinating and defecating.  The 
        mother dog then eat the pups excrement 
        which help to keep the den area clean, 
        and remove the smell that could attract 
        predators!
                 Now, the puppies learn this behavior
                 from their mother...and will lick 
                 their own "bottoms" and eat their
                 own feces.  However, the latter 
                 usually stop, by the time the puppies 
                 are weaned.  This I could consider a
                 nurtured by nature experience.
          But, then it becomes a problem if the 
          adult dog eat feces.    Sometimes, learned
          from other dogs, or an attention-seeking 
          behavior, or any of the above notes shown
          under REASONS FOR COPROPHAGIA.

"...me? . . .never never would bow wow
to such a behavior!..."